A High-End Gaming PC.

[CRaziY]

I Got The Parts,But I Can't tell if they are Compatible with Each Other.Or Is There Something Under 2500$ That Is Better than The Build I created.

Computer Specs:

Case:COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case with USB 3.0, Black Interior and Four Fans-1x 230mm front RED LED fan, 1x 140mm rear fan, 1x 230mm top fan, and 1x 230mm side fan

MotherBoard: Asus Sabertooth X77 LGA 1155
Newegg.com - ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

GPU: 2 GTX 670 In SLI
Newegg.com - EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

Power Supply: 750W Corsair
Newegg.com - CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply

cpu: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000
Newegg.com - Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770K

SSD/My Boot Drive:OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Newegg.com - OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

HDD:Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST31500341AS 1.5TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Newegg.com - Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST31500341AS 1.5TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

RAMI'll be Downloading More Later,jk xD)CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
Newegg.com - CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10

Cooler: CORSAIR H100 (CWCH100) Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
Newegg.com - CORSAIR H100 (CWCH100) Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
================================================== ===========================
I'll be getting 3xMonitors.
So Is This good enough to Handle It?

[Alen]

>HAF 932
With 2500 to spend you might as well get a decent case. By decent I mean quality aluminum stuff, not plastic fantastic shit. Look at Lian Li, they're one of my fav manufacturors of full tower cases (and cases in general, though Fractal Design offers some pretty good bang for the buck air cooling solutions)
>Sabertooth X77
Probably better off getting the V-Pro if you intend to OC and stuff. As someone who's had bad experience with Asus in the past (pre-sandy bridge, admittedly) I'll recommend you look at Gigabyte's mobos. So far I've only had good experiences with them and I intend to keep on using them myself. Alternatively Asrock makes great bang for the buck boards and doesn't really offer that much less performance with it's higher-end boards in comparrison to others. Hell, some people even hit pretty damn high clocks on their Asrock boards and laugh at others' precious Asus boards.
>2 GTX 670
Your call with the gfx cards, but a dual 670 setup is pretty much enough to rape any game you'll ever want to play. Should be enough for 3 screens, though I honestly recommend you don't. Most games have no to horrible tweaks to make them anywhere close to looking normal on a three screen setup and I can personally attest to that. In my opinion I would ditch the 3 screens in favour of two screens - a gaming 120Hz TN panel for single screen 3D gaming and a decent IPS panel screen for normal work.
>750W Corsair
Sounds reasonable but doesn't offer too much headroom for OCing your stuff if you ever get serious with the clocks / voltages. However if you're not a die-hard enthusiast, it should be more than enough.
>3770K
Spot on, you better OC it or I'll find you and murder you for wasting your money
>OCZ Agility 3
Fuck OCZ, go with a Crucial m4 - best overall real-life performance and pretty much always at the top in specific categories
>Barracuda 7200.11
Stay away from Barracuda drives as if they were the bubonic plague. If you want a backup drive for your files/downloads/music etc. get a Hitachi or WD drive. Only two companies I still trust to make a quality cheap HDD, Barracudas have a history of dying, being useless and otherwise pissing off people that bough them.
>1600MHz CL10 Vengeance
Kinda bad for such a large budget, I would rather you get less ram but better. You want to find at least some 1600MHz CL8 stuff, which should allow you more space to adjust the timings and clocks to your liking.
>H100
Very meh about this one, but it might just be my view on things. Personally I have a "go all the way or don't go at all" view with LC. The H100 will perform worse than top-notch air cooling but at the same time it is quite affordable and easy to set up. I would honestly rather throw in another hundred bucks and get myself a proper LC kit that you can later expand to include the gfx cards and/or other stuff.

If you want "better" you can always just sacrifice stuff to get 3-way 680s or something, but imo the general idea behind your build is great. Looks like a nice overall performer with lots of space for future expansion, albeit perhaps not for the gfx cards (your only option would be to replace them or add another 670). From my suggestions I really recommend you switch the SSD and HDD, you'll save money and gain performance/reliability. Honestly the case and PSU don't matter that much, though I really think it would be a waste not to give such a build the look and power it deserves. Ram must almost certainly be switched if you want high-end stuff, and I personally recommend you go with a proper LC kit for two reasons: looks and performance. If you personally like a challenge I would recommend you sleeve all the cables too, just to give your PC those finishing touches you see in pro builds.

[Bengali]

Keep the case. The HAF line has excellent build quality with excellent airflow.

The ASUS Z77 Sabertooth is the best Z77 mobo out right now IMO. Overclocking on it is like a dream. I personally don't like spending that much on a mobo however. The ASRock Extreme4 or Extreme6 will be good enough for this build.

I would want to get a modular PSU for your budget. A HX750 or an AX750.

What monitor do you have? Two 670s might be overkill if it's a single 60Hz 1080p monitor.

I wouldn't get an Agility 3 SSD. Get one of the following
Newegg.com - Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Newegg.com - Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F120GBGT-BK 2.5" 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Newegg.com - SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC128B/WW 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Newegg.com - Plextor M3 Series PX-128M3 2.5" 128GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

If gaming is your main priority get a 3570k instead.

Get a 1TB Western Digital Black drive.

[CRaziY]

>HAF 932
With 2500 to spend you might as well get a decent case. By decent I mean quality aluminum stuff, not plastic fantastic shit. Look at Lian Li, they're one of my fav manufacturors of full tower cases (and cases in general, though Fractal Design offers some pretty good bang for the buck air cooling solutions)
>Sabertooth X77
Probably better off getting the V-Pro if you intend to OC and stuff. As someone who's had bad experience with Asus in the past (pre-sandy bridge, admittedly) I'll recommend you look at Gigabyte's mobos. So far I've only had good experiences with them and I intend to keep on using them myself. Alternatively Asrock makes great bang for the buck boards and doesn't really offer that much less performance with it's higher-end boards in comparrison to others. Hell, some people even hit pretty damn high clocks on their Asrock boards and laugh at others' precious Asus boards.
>2 GTX 670
Your call with the gfx cards, but a dual 670 setup is pretty much enough to rape any game you'll ever want to play. Should be enough for 3 screens, though I honestly recommend you don't. Most games have no to horrible tweaks to make them anywhere close to looking normal on a three screen setup and I can personally attest to that. In my opinion I would ditch the 3 screens in favour of two screens - a gaming 120Hz TN panel for single screen 3D gaming and a decent IPS panel screen for normal work.
>750W Corsair
Sounds reasonable but doesn't offer too much headroom for OCing your stuff if you ever get serious with the clocks / voltages. However if you're not a die-hard enthusiast, it should be more than enough.
>3770K
Spot on, you better OC it or I'll find you and murder you for wasting your money
>OCZ Agility 3
Fuck OCZ, go with a Crucial m4 - best overall real-life performance and pretty much always at the top in specific categories
>Barracuda 7200.11
Stay away from Barracuda drives as if they were the bubonic plague. If you want a backup drive for your files/downloads/music etc. get a Hitachi or WD drive. Only two companies I still trust to make a quality cheap HDD, Barracudas have a history of dying, being useless and otherwise pissing off people that bough them.
>1600MHz CL10 Vengeance
Kinda bad for such a large budget, I would rather you get less ram but better. You want to find at least some 1600MHz CL8 stuff, which should allow you more space to adjust the timings and clocks to your liking.
>H100
Very meh about this one, but it might just be my view on things. Personally I have a "go all the way or don't go at all" view with LC. The H100 will perform worse than top-notch air cooling but at the same time it is quite affordable and easy to set up. I would honestly rather throw in another hundred bucks and get myself a proper LC kit that you can later expand to include the gfx cards and/or other stuff.

If you want "better" you can always just sacrifice stuff to get 3-way 680s or something, but imo the general idea behind your build is great. Looks like a nice overall performer with lots of space for future expansion, albeit perhaps not for the gfx cards (your only option would be to replace them or add another 670). From my suggestions I really recommend you switch the SSD and HDD, you'll save money and gain performance/reliability. Honestly the case and PSU don't matter that much, though I really think it would be a waste not to give such a build the look and power it deserves. Ram must almost certainly be switched if you want high-end stuff, and I personally recommend you go with a proper LC kit for two reasons: looks and performance. If you personally like a challenge I would recommend you sleeve all the cables too, just to give your PC those finishing touches you see in pro builds.

Thanks For the Advice
I'll be updating the list soon.

---------- Post added at 04:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:43 PM ----------

Keep the case. The HAF line has excellent build quality with excellent airflow.

The ASUS Z77 Sabertooth is the best Z77 mobo out right now IMO. Overclocking on it is like a dream. I personally don't like spending that much on a mobo however. The ASRock Extreme4 or Extreme6 will be good enough for this build.

I would want to get a modular PSU for your budget. A HX750 or an AX750.

What monitor do you have? Two 670s might be overkill if it's a single 60Hz 1080p monitor.

I wouldn't get an Agility 3 SSD. Get one of the following
Newegg.com - Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Newegg.com - Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F120GBGT-BK 2.5" 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Newegg.com - SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC128B/WW 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Newegg.com - Plextor M3 Series PX-128M3 2.5" 128GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

If gaming is your main priority get a 3570k instead.

Get a 1TB Western Digital Black drive.

Instead Of the WD Black I was thinking of The Caviar Green.Also, I will be switching the Current SSD with the Samsung 830

[Bengali]

Instead Of the WD Black I was thinking of The Caviar Green.Also, I will be switching the Current SSD with the Samsung 830

Don't get a green drive. They are slow. Just get a black drive like I said before. They are probably the best 7200RPM drive in market.

[CRaziY]

Don't get a green drive. They are slow. Just get a black drive like I said before. They are probably the best 7200RPM drive in market.

Oh that was good to know xD.But Do you have any concerns about the Liquid Cooling?

[Alen]

Don't get a green drive. They are slow. Just get a black drive like I said before. They are probably the best 7200RPM drive in market.

The point of getting performance drives for data storage is...?

Oh that was good to know xD.But Do you have any concerns about the Liquid Cooling?

The H100 is a closed loop that can hardly be called proper LC. You don't have to worry one bit, so long as you don't go stab the tubing.

[CRaziY]

Oh alright...I probably Won't Be stabbing the tubing unless I want to pay extra for more tubes -__-

[Bengali]

The point of getting performance drives for data storage is...?

Yea good luck with loading BF3 and large programs from a green drive. A single 128GB SSD isn't nearly enough for storing everything.

[Alen]

Yea good luck with loading BF3 and large programs from a green drive. A single 128GB SSD isn't nearly enough for storing everything.

My Windows OS is approx 20GB large, my games are 85GB. The point of having the extra green drive is to store what you don't need instantly loaded - music, movies, pictures etc. The OS + core programs + quite a few games should easily fit on any 100GB+ disk.